Day 82 (August 4). Into Southern Indiana

From: Springfield, IL

To: French Lick, IN

Miles today: 255

Total miles: 16778

As I rode southeast across Illinois and into Indiana along IL 29, US 51 south and good old US 50 east, it threatened to rain all day.  Not the afternoon thunderstorms of elsewhere, but the all-day type associated with the eastern US.  I am almost home. 

But it didn’t rain, and while muggy, the overcast held the temperatures down to the mid-80’s.  The land is not quite flat, and everywhere is either crops or hardwood forest.  As I moved further south, toward the Ohio river valley, small areas of marsh or swamp appeared.  This kind of terrain reminds me of where I was a kid in Monmouth County, New Jersey, before it got completely developed. I used to walk or ride my bike with friends all over area like this, or be driven through it in my dad’s VW Beetle. 

Southern Illinois.  Left: The intersection of US 50 and US 51 had to be somewhere -- it turns out it is in Sandoval, IL.
Right: Typical view of the entire region: corn, grasses, trees.

Once I crossed the Wabash River and into Indiana, and got a bit further south, the famous limestone outcroppings this area is famous for began to appear. I look forward to exploring them in more detail tomorrow.  Meanwhile, I headed for the town of French Lick, where I was once many years ago.  This was a resort town from the late 19^th century up until 1929 due to their “Pluto Water,” or natural mineral springs.  I remember coming across a gigantic domed resort building when I was here before, and thinking what a shame it was that such a magnificent, opulent structure was falling into ruins.  Well, since then someone decided to invest a ton of money into this area (it is about halfway between Indianapolis and Louisville), and the building has been completely refurbished and re-opened as the pricy West Baden Springs Hotel.  I had to go inside, which fortunately is allowed even if you are not a guest.  The rooms are in a circular ring around a 200-foot diameter atrium, with the windows and balconies looking down into it.  I had already booked a room, and it was really expensive, but I was sorely tempted to spend the night there.  It is lovely.

Refurbished West Baden Springs Resort, now a luxury hotel.  Left: exterior view from the road.  Right: interior shot of the huge atrium.  In the distance are three levels of hotel rooms.  I think the floor tiling is original, or a good restoration. 

Unfortunately, they found lithium in the mineral springs themselves, so you can no longer bathe in the water or drink it.  Lithium is toxic, but in small doses it is known as a powerful anti-depressant.  Perhaps that was the true reason people liked this resort so much the first time around!