Day 58 (July 11). BC 37, Part 1

From: Watson Lake YT

To: Iskut, BC

Miles today: 206

Total miles: 11902

The “bible of the North Country,” Milepost, refers to BC 37 as The Cassiar Highway (for the mountain range it passes through).  Nowhere on the road itself does this name appear; just “37.” It is a narrow road with no shoulders and no centerline, and at first I was worried that I would be riding through gravel and chip seal again. But the surface turned out to be fine for the most part, with some rough patches due to frost heaves and the like. I was limited to 50 mph or less for most of the ride, though, because it was so narrow and sinewy. Even with the heavy overcast, it was a pleasure to ride. I was not in a hurry, took my time, and enjoyed it even during the frequent bouts of rain.

The first stretch of road took me out of Yukon and into British Columbia (BC from now on), and it was twisty even though it was not particularly hilly; I think the road was trying to avoid the worst of the marshy areas.  Between the smoke and the overcast, and the fact that the area I was riding through had burned a year or two before, the road looked like a path into a haunted forest.  No lions or tigers, but there are definitely bears out here. Probably winged monkeys too. 

It seems unearthly, doesn't it?  Along Route 37, northern British Columbia

The road then began climbing through a low mountain range.  I took a break at a place along BC 37 called “Jade City,” where a large deposit of nearly pure jade (actually about 100 miles away, I later discovered) is sliced, polished, and sold.  I talked to a guy from Vancouver Island who had a six-month contract to work there as a stone cutter.  He said about 30 people live there during the season, and all of them are associated with Jade City in some way.  He didn’t say what he got paid, but he did note that food and lodging were included in the contract. It is about two hours south of Watson Lake and two hours north of the town of Dease Lake, and sometimes on longer stretches they go all the way to Whitehorse. They have three diesel generators for power, but right now they are putting up a crew that is bringing power lines in from somewhere south or east that is already wired.  As usual in these places, they use a phone line to swipe your credit card.  I didn’t have much interest in the carved figurines (apparently BC jade but actually carved in China!), but there were stone scraps lying around that were just lovely.  I definitely see the appeal. Here are some pieces I did not buy!

Large pieces of raw jade, in various stages of processing.  Jade City, BC.

Further down the road, I pulled over by the bridge over the Stikine River. It was a chance to stretch my legs, but the views down by the river were very nice.  There were lots of rocks of various colors along the bank.  Some were green.  Jade?  Later, my host at the bed and breakfast I am staying – who used to work with jade – told me it was probably serpentine, another nice stone found all over these parts but not valuable. Tony was also the guy who told me, in the most general of terms, where the actual “jade mountain” is located.

Stikine River, BC.  Right: is that rock in the center Jade?  No, it's probably Serpentine.  Oh well.